Bournville Radio Sailing and Model Boat Club

Information for new Members
The hobby of radio-controlled sailing or scale model boats combines the technical skills of building models as well as the challenges of competitive racing.
Our activities can be taken up at any time and at any level, all that is needed is the desire to learn and a readiness to join in as many events as possible.
Here at Bournville we have very active sailing community that race competitively on a weekly basis along with our scale modellers who produce some superb scale models. The scale team also race club 500 boats once a month. With the many types of boats to model and the many classes of yachts there is a wide scope for interest and progression. It is as much a sport as it is a model boat hobby.
Sailing
Classes Sailed at Bournville
Weekly: IOM (International One Metre)
Monthly: DF/RG65
36”
6M (Six Metre)
Please see our sailing page and calendar for the many dates when these are sailed.
How much to spend on a first boat
There will be a wide range of boat prices, from something like £150 up to 20 times that amount. That seems like a lot of money for what appears to be a simple model. However, these boats are individually hand built and fitted out for certification to Class Rules.
It is worth going for a good spec IOM boat to help you quickly get used to sailing and racing. A boat that comes with two or three sail rigs, suggests that it has been readied for good standard racing. It is worthwhile noting that, subject to wear and tear, boats tend to hold their value for trading them on later.
Getting started ‘on the cheap’ can be a false economy, not least because of resultant frustrations arising from poor equipment whilst trying to learn.
The higher the grade of boat that you can get, the better will be your learning experience.
Before you buy anything, it is strongly recommended to seek a second opinion from an independent and experienced member. The Club’s Sailing Officer or a committee member can offer help with this.
Additionally, a good 2.4G transmitter/receiver set is needed. It is not necessary to pay the earth for a transmitter as these are available at around £60. Do purchase at least two rechargeable boat battery packs. For an IOM, Li-Fe 1000mAh battery packs with XC30 connectors are suggested, along with a good quality charger; is worthwhile spending a bit more for quality and functionality here.
Certificates
Your boat will need a registration certificate to show compliance with class rules. This must be transferred from the previous owner (online via the MYA) to remain valid.
However, if the boat does not have a certificate, you’ll need to have the boat measured by a Class Measurer and then send the documents online to the MYA’s Class Registrar.
The Sailing Officer will help guide you in this process, which is quite straightforward.
Before taking part in any racing, ‘two-digit’ sail numbers (00 to 99*) must be in place. Sail numbers can be selected from one of three options as follows:
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Continue with the numbers already applied
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Use the last two digits of your boat’s hull number
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Obtain your own personal sail number through the MYA
* If the number is the same as one already in use at your club, or is the personal sail number of someone in the same district then choose a different number.
An additional digit (i.e. #1) must be placed in front of the number if it is already assigned at a race for which you sign up to.
What are the Rules
With the addition of Appendix E, all classes are sailed to the same rules as for full size boats:
i.e. The Racing Rules of Sailing.
This is a bit like the highway code for road users and, although appearing a little daunting at first, are quite logical. Basically, they instruct how to sail with due respect to others and how to avoid damage.
The rules are available online from the Club, MYA and RYA websites.
A very good book for helping to understand everything is: “The Rules in Practice” by Bryan Willis
The top four rules to remember when getting started are:
● Boats on a port tack give way to those on a starboard tack
● You must keep clear of leeward boats (i.e. ‘keep up’)
● You have to give room for an inside overlapped boat at a mark*
● Boats headed for the lake bank can call for ‘room to tack’
* Except at the windward mark if port/starboard conditions apply)
Both the MYA and club websites have useful knowledge pages which have links to many excellent articles. These will cover the rules and how to tune your boat for racing.
The diagram from the Baltimore City Yacht Association shows the basic rules in a visual style.

Weather Conditions
Apart from thunderstorms, ice on the lake or totally still air, sailing pretty much goes ahead in all weathers. When the wind is strong, smaller sail rigs are needed, so it is worth watching weather forecasts to make sure that you have the right rigs with you.
The club’s website has a link to a particularly good online weather forecast.
It is rare that No.2 sail rigs are needed at Bournville, but it can happen. For other classes though, it is important to have the correct range of sail rigs.
Enjoying Racing
BRSMBC, along with all MYA affiliated clubs, adheres to the RYA ‘Racing Charter’. This asks that all participants respect one-another and that any sailing issues are managed through correct channels. The aim is that all can continue to enjoy and develop the club and the sport.
Members are encouraged to participate in open events, or to support the Race Team, for our occasional open events throughout the year.
The MYA’s District and National scene is very active and provides some excellent opportunities to sail at other venues and compete with different people. BRSMBC typically hosts three or four MYA level races throughout the year, and our members can take part in these events.
We have a WhatsApp group for sailing members which provides up to date information, and you are encouraged to join this by (just let the club secretary know for signing up).
Scale Models
Scale models refers to all types of boats of any scale or size. The variety of boats to model is unlimited and can include Cruisers, Fishing boats, Life boats, Military vessels, Pleasure craft, Tugs to name some of the more common models.
Most of the scale models will be radio controlled and be propelled by an electric motor. (Internal combustion engines are not permitted within our club). Club rule 19 applies.
Scale models / Powered models gets addictive and the first model is very frequently joined by a subsequent model or two. Planning for future models can save you money in the longer term
Meeting Times
The Power / Scale team meet at the following times.
Tuesdays 10am- 4pm
Thursdays 10am – 4pm
Sundays 1pm – 4pm
What equipment will I need
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2.4GHz radio transmitter – A basic 2 channel set to control speed and steering can currently be obtained for around £40. This may not be the most cost-effective solution if you progress your hobby and want to add extras to your model like lights and sound effects that will also need a control channel. This would require buying another radio transmitter and receiver. If you progress further to multiple motored models you may require more channels. A multi channel transmitter with a 10 model memory might be a better option. These currently start at around £55.00. If you require more facilities and programable functions then you will need to spend several hundred pounds on a transmitter. For powered models a transmitter with the throttle control stick that returns to the centre position is best. Not all transmitters provide this facility.
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2.4GHz Receiver – Every model will need a receiver. These must be matched to the transmitter type you have purchased. If you have bought a transmitter with multi model memory’s then you will only need to buy a new receiver for any subsequent models.
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Batteries – These will be either Gell Acid (PB), Nickle Metal Hydride (NiMH) or Lithium Polymer (LiPO) types depending on your motor and model type. A warning here is that LiPO batteries need careful handling, storage and charging so as to prevent fires. Always use a fireproof bag for storing and charging.
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Speed controller – To control forward and reverse speed you will need a speed controller. The speed controller type will be dependent on your motor and battery choice. There are many speed controllers available from experience it is better to buy a speed controller that is rated for double the motors current requirements as these will normally last a lot longer.
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Battery Charger - Rechargeable batteries will need a charger. These are available as simple plug top charger suitable for charging 1 battery of a specific type to a very versatile charger where you can select the battery type and charge current. Obviously the more versatile chargers will be more expensive but in the long term if you have multiple batteries, it may be a better option.
Where to obtain models
Model boat kits and accessories are available from many model shops around the country Some of these are listed on the links page on this website.
While it can be very rewarding to build a model from a kit it does take time. Second hand models are a quick way to get on the water and are available from several sources. Always view a model before purchasing. Pictures on sales sites can be deceiving. If you are looking for a model it often worth asking as members often have models for sale.
Battery types
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Lead Acid / Gell Acid (PB) – Usually 6V or 12V These batteries were the original battery types used in models and still have a place today. They are larger and heavier than newer battery types but that can be an advantage if you need some ballast weight. They are suited to models where the motor current draw is smaller.
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Nickle metal Hydride (NiMH) – the 7.2V 6 cell battery pack is a very common battery in Models. They provide a reasonable current capacity for medium sized models and are lighter than Gell batteries. 8.4V and 9.6V packs are also available.
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Lithium Polymer (LiPO) – These are very lightweight but have a high capacity for their weight. Common pack voltages are 7.4V (2S), 11.1V (3S), 14.8V (4S). Larger voltage types are available for more specialist applications. These batteries have to come with a warning as they need to be handled, stored and charged correctly or they can become a fire hazard.
Battery Charging
As a rule of thumb Gel Acid and Nickle metal Hydride batteries need charging slowly at 1/10 of the battery capacity to ensure maximum battery life.
Eg:- A battery with 5000mAH capacity should be charged at 500mA = O.5A
Lithium Polymer batteries – these are readily available and widely used ln models but must be handled with caution.
When charging Lithium Polymer batteries always follow the manufactures instructions.
Never leave Lithium Polymer batteries charging unattended
Always place the batteries on a fireproof surface
Use a fire proof charging bag
Confused about Batteries Please ask a club member for advice.
Model Safety
To ensure your safety, and the safety of others the following are recommended.
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All powered models (especially the faster models) should have a failsafe fitted that shuts the power off if the radio signal fails. This is normally a function of the transmitter and receiver set up but stand-alone units are available.
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A fuse is fitted between your battery and the speed controller – a blown fuse is a lot cheaper than a new speed controller and or motor.
Club 500 Racing
Club 500 boats are a small, fun, single class model power boat that are raced within clubs around the country. To ensure fair racing no modifications to the kit are permitted apart from the aerofoil and dummy motor which are optional.
Construction rules and the racing rules can be found on our club 500 page
We race club 500’s here at Bournville on the third Sunday in the month. You need to be a club member and have your insurance with the MPBA (Model Power Boat Association). Club membership details are on our website. Your MPBA membership can be arranged along with your club membership by our treasurer.
We race for fun with a competitive spirit helped along by starting each race session with a hot snack and cake.
Getting started in club 500
You will need a boat. The kits for these are available to order from “Club 500 Slipway” www.club500slipway.com
The kit comes with the hull and superstructure, motor, motor mount, prop shaft, coupling, rudder, rudder support and propeller.
You can choose the colours for your hull and superstructure when ordering. It’s always best to call first to see what colours are currently available. Club 500 slipway can be contacted on 01902 746905 or 07884 071122 Monday to Friday 9am-6pm.
We recommend that you also purchase the plastic frame & cover so that you can fully waterproof the hull. This is essential when racing so the boat does not sink when you manage to tip it over. (It will happen as we can all testify too).
It is also a good idea to purchase the “solid brass alignment tool” so that you can align the motor and prop shaft to get the best performance from your boat. (you can make your own alignment tool if you have access to engineering facilities).
The kit can be assembled with basic hand tools, strong Scissors, craft knife, sand paper, small file, pliers, hand drill.
Club 500 costs
The club 500 slipway website shows the basic kit at time of writing as £73.00, Plastic frame and cover £6.60 and Alignment tool £6.60. Plus postage and packing. If you order everything together you will save a bit on postage and packing.
Additional items needed for a club 500
• Epoxy glue to glue the internal parts- This must be an epoxy suitable for plastic. JBL Weld, Plastic weld has been found to work well but others are available.
• A flexible sealant and grab adhesive suitable for plastics. These are available from Screwfix and Toolstation from various manufacturers.
• 2 channel radio control transmitter and receiver. There are many makes and models around, always choose a 2.4GHZ model as these are the most used sets today. Depending on your ambitions for your model boat hobby it may be better to pay a little more for a transmitter that can be used with multiple models. Confused – come and talk to us and we can explain the differences.
• Speed controller – In my experience invest in a good one with at least a 25amp rating, or you will end up buying replacements
• Servo and linkage to control the rudder- A low profile servo fits the best.
• Batteries – For Racing a 7.2volt Nickle metal hydride (NiMH) is required. We have found that a battery capacity of 4600 or 5000mAH will provide enough power for two 4 minute races. Our race sessions consist of four 4 minutes races so you will need at least two batteries.
• Battery charger – These range from simple plug top chargers that will charge one battery pack at a time to chargers that can be configured to charge all sorts of different battery types. The costs of the chargers also vary between the different types
• Rubber band – a strong rubber band is used to secure the motor
• Self-adhesive foam tape – wing seating tape - used on the motor mount to prevent motor slipping.
Construction tips
• Use some off cut plastic to strengthen the bow before putting the deck on.
• Strengthen the area around the rudder tube and inside the rudder support with additional layers of plastic.
• Add a M5 metal washer at both ends of the prop shat as thrust washers
• Glue a “U” of plastic or thin brass over the prop shaft where is rests on the support
• Silicon O-rings on the rudder shaft improve water tightness.
• Add buoyancy- A piece of polystyrene in the superstructure lid is recommended. Buoyancy can be added in the bow section if you wish.


